I recently switched from working primarily on a laptop to an iPad. It took a while to get used to, but I’ve found great benefits especially when drawing or designing. In addition to a simple pluggable keyboard, I can type as much as I can on the computer, while being more portable. Since I enjoyed the change so much that I decided to make my own iPad case and share it with all of you.
I designed this iPad case for all the people like me who enjoy the convenience of always having your device with you. It will make a great birthday gift and can be made of leather, vinyl, canvas and quilted fabric. I am determined to use my stock of fabric so I use leftovers from an IKEA bean bag.
This backpack has a small zip pocket large enough for your valuables.
Inner pocket is large enough for the latest iPad Pro.
Secure buckle closure.
that’s easy Advanced Intermediary Project. You will need to understand cyst formation and intermediate experience. This iPad backpack project is suitable for people who love to learn something new and can pay close attention to the instructions.
Fabric Recommendations from Amazon.com
How to download iPad backpack pattern
Please use the latest version of Adobe Reader, this is the only software you need to download the pattern. Use landscape mode and no scaling, print using actual size.
Download the pattern
How to sew your iPad case
In addition to all the pieces on the model, you will need
- 2 inner pocket tabs
- 2 buckle straps (8 long x 1 wide)
- 2 zipper tabs
I’ll add an extra pocket to hold my phone and sunglasses, and I’ll share with you a separate tutorial on how to do that.
iPad backpack is big enough for 12.9″ Ipad pro.
Height: 15″ (38 cm)
Width: 13″ (33 cm)
Depth: 3.5″ (9 cm)
Sew the lining and add the pockets
I recommend adding two zip pockets for the lining. Our easy-to-follow video tutorial will make this iPad backpack more secure.
Note: On the lining side, I added a double elastic pocket to store my car keys and sunglasses. I like these two pockets because of the ease of access, although they are not as secure as the zipper pocket.
Once you’ve added a zip pocket to the lining, sew the gusset, then place the gusset print down over the lining print facing up. In other words, the prints are facing each other. For a more comprehensive way to sew curves, I’m going to share with you this separate tutorial that will give you some super easy tips and tricks. They give me professional looking results every time.
Once the pockets are in and the gusset is sewn, set the lining aside.
Interior zip pocket stitching
This is probably my pocket favorite, it works in almost any bag. But I must say that it is not the easiest to try to explain. I’ll do my best, but I’m expecting a video tutorial soon.
You will need to cut four 13 3/4 rectangles and about as wide as the main piece of the bag, there is a cut-line mark on your pattern.
Sew two tabs at the end of the zipper. Each tab should be a zipper tape width and length of 2.
You will also need two small squares (2 1/5 X 2 1/2″) of fabric that will be sewn to the sides of the pocket. Sew the tabs at 1/4″, print side inward, using a safety pin, turn the tabs inside out.
This will be a self-padded pocket, I suggest you use a fabric that has a soft pile side like the one used for upholstery, otherwise you can use a cotton pad or fusible front.
Place one of the rectangles’ print side up and the zipper’s right side down.
Take another rectangle and align it with the zipper and the rectangle on the table. You will end up with a sandwich. The cloud will be in the middle.
Sew the zipper and rectangles together using the zipper.
Move both rectangles to the same side exposing the remaining zipper tape and slip under another rectangle. We repeat the procedure we did before on the other side of the zipper tape.
Place the remaining rectangle aligning it with the zipper tape and sew it.
Top stitch around the zipper so the fabric won’t get caught when opening or closing the zipper.
Lay the pocket on the table with the right side of the zipper facing up, and place the tabs you made earlier 3/4 inch in front of the zipper.
Open the zipper halfway and sew it around the pocket. Cut corners and zigzag around to finish the seams. Note here: If you don’t leave the zipper open, you won’t be able to roll it.
Turn the pocket inside out and set it aside. We need to work on the outside of the bag in order to insert the zipper pocket.
Sew face to lining
There are two pieces in your pattern for the face, pieces A and B. Join them by sewing at 1/4″. The face now consists of two pieces that will eventually be attached to the pocket marker in between. This is how we add the zipper pocket to the bag.
Bend the tongue 3/4″ from the bottom and sew. The longest part of the face will be on top of the bag and the shorter one will be used to attach the lining.
Make sure the wrong side of the lining is visible then insert the zipper pocket inside the lining and staple face up and sew. Flip the face.
Sew outside the bag
We will now add an external pocket, this is one of the features I always have in my backpacks.
To make the pocket more useful, it will serve as an anchor for the square loops where the straps will be attached.
Cut a rectangle of length 26 1/2 by 13 1/2, with the print side facing each other. Fold the rectangle in the middle and sew the sides, leaving the bottom unstitched. Align the rectangle loops 1 1/4 from the edge of the pocket.
Lay the pocket over the outside of the bag 2 1/4 from the top.
Sew the pocket down, at 1/8 with special care around the loops. There you have to go back and forth with the sewing machine to make sure the loops will secure well. The loops along with the top of the straps will bear the weight of the bag.
Make another 13 1/2″ X 3 3/4″ rectangle. Cut one from the fabric and one from the fusible fronts and sew them at 1/4 leaving a little room for you to turn them over. Trim the corners and pin into the bag covering the edge of the pocket and the grommet marks.
On the other side of this rectangle, fasten the belt with the buckle of the bag.
Sew along the tape to secure it and sew the smaller rectangle at 1/8 of the edge.
Sewing the outer gusset
The gusset is sewn as in the lining. Print the top of the main piece of the bag, place the gusset print side down, and sew.
I have to say this is going to be a little tricky because of the shape. Refer to the Sewing Curves tutorial for tips that will make this task a lot easier, unless of course you are a professional and have stitched curves for many years.
Turn right outside. Put aside.
Making and tying the tape
Fold the fabric strip in the middle lengthwise. Using an iron tuck in the edges of the straps and then sew the side. I ran four stitching lines on the straps to make them a little stiffer without using any fusible interface.
If you are using sewing fabric, I suggest using a very thin front with sewing lines as well. Insert the end of the belt-
With the seam facing down. Then pass the tape through the square ring.
By moving the strap up, thread the strap under the first hole in the slider
Above the bridge and below the other side of the slider.
Attach the strap end to the top edge of the bag.
Attach the lining to the bag.
The pocket in the middle is what can make you a little confused. This is where I realized there must have been an easier way to do the lining but it’s a bit late.
With both the outside and the lining’s print side out, align the lining with the bag starting with the straps.
We will be hand sewing and need to make sure the straps are machine sewn. Continue screwing the liner into the bag until there is a hole large enough to turn the bag over.
Sew until you can’t do this, then flip the bag over. Sew the hole with a needle and thread.
Making and attaching aileron
Attach the belt buckle to the center of the right side of the cover. Sew around the flap, leaving about three inches of space to wrap. Cut corners and rotate.
Finally, attach the cover to the back of the backpack.
Stitch the straps down about 3/8″ from the lid and we’re done.
Self-criticism and review
I’m the first to admit that the backpack I made had to have a recessed zipper. But since this is a sample of the final product, I will have time to address this issue.
I think this is the perfect opportunity to come up with a way to add a sunken zipper to an already made bag. But in the meantime, here’s a tutorial for you to make a super quality Ipad backpack for yourself.
In hindsight I would have preferred to use Pellon FF77 or Bosal, but I don’t have either with me. I need to order from Amazon.com since I don’t have any product in my neck in the woods.
Overall, I like the size a lot, the straps are long enough to adjust according to the amount of clothing I’m wearing and the inside pocket is secure and big enough to hold an iPad with the keyboard attached. Although I would not use a metal zipper as it may scratch the device if the screen is not protected by a cover. I also wish I could add a pocket to the lid.
I hope you take these reviews into account when you sew your own iPad case, I can assure you that you will be very happy in the end.
What do you add to this backpack? Leave your thoughts in the comments section below. If you need a smaller bag, don’t forget to check out the Small Backpack in our YouTube channel. Until next time!
If you want to support our site
If you would like to help us continue to offer a wide range of free sewing patterns and projects, please consider purchasing a coffee for us. We really appreciated it.