This is the office hours blouse pattern — for when elegance, femininity, and sophistication call. This type of blouse has many variations but the same beginning. More on that in a later post where I will write about the history of this blouse design.
The blouse has a pleat in the front for added interest. Elastic at the cuffs to make it easier to fit and roll the sleeves when washing hands. After all, you are supposed to be a busy girl when wearing this blouse. Gathers at the shoulders to stylize your shoulders are an added elegance. And a scoop neckline with a hook and eye closure. I opened the blouse a bit so you can see the slit where you will be able to fit your head through, but it really lays closed.
This style of blouse has been very popular since the ’50s and every decade after that. This is the perfect blouse under a cardigan, jacket or by itself. Wear it with a pair of palazzo pants, culottes, skinny jeans, a pencil skirt, a leather skirt or a pair of shorts. You will find yourself wearing this little number for many years to come.
- 1 1/2 yards of lightweight woven fabric (satin, rayon, charmeuse, printed batiste, silk back crepe)
- Thread to match
- 18″ to 21″ of 3/8″ or 1/2″ wide elastic
- 24 to 28″ of 1 3/8″ wide bias tape (depends on size)
- Hook and eye closure
- Sewing machine
Fabric Suggestions from Amazon
I am using a crinkled rayon to test my pattern. I will be making a size medium. Crinkled rayon is a tricky fabric to choose from for most projects. The fabric tends to expand as the crinkles begin to smooth out, this makes your outfit feel and look wider than when you first put it on. To avoid that here, I have washed and ironed the fabric completely smooth free of wrinkles and only then I will proceed to cut it.
I love this fabric because when the piece is done I can just wash and hand dry without needing to bother with ironing. It is a great fabric to wear throughout the year, it tends to be nice and cool in summer, yet warm in winter. I will write a separate article on this fabric finish since we already have an article on rayon or is it viscose, why don’t you find out for yourselves.
How To Download Our Office Hours Blouse Pattern?
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Download Pattern HERE
Place the fabric on a fold. Use the picture below as a guide.
The seam allowances are not included but I suggest you use a 5/8″ seam allowance.
This pattern does not include the bias tape for the neckline.
Sewing skill: Advanced Beginner/Intermediate
There are twelve seas in this Office Hour Blouse pattern, three pieces of the pattern, one bias tape that doubles as a tie at the back, two pieces of elastic and that is it. I guess what I am trying to say is that this blouse is very easy to make.
You will need to make your own bias tape. I suggest you do this before starting the blouse. Here are the step-by-step instructions on how to make it.
Fitting Your Office Hours Blouse Pattern
The first thing you should understand about the pattern making is that there are seven different sizing tables in use at the moment around the world. So the chances of you not having to make adjustments to your patterns are very small.
This blog is read in 144 different countries so SML XL 2XL differs from country to country. I have done my best to share with you patterns that you can use, however, you may need to make adjustments to the pattern as you see fit.
This office hours blouse pattern is a semi-fitted blouse, meaning there should be 2 to 4 inches of room to move around, and it is best for the hourglass figure, rectangle and inverted triangle figure. You will find that the bust and the hip measurements are the same.
Measure the length of the pattern to see if you will be happy with the length.
Measure your bust, and compare it with the finished garment measurements leaving room for ease.
For Sizes XL and 2XL measure your bicep and compare it to the sleeve to make sure you have enough room for your arm.
The most important detail in this blouse is that the shoulder sea is actually at your shoulder. So before you cut the fabric measure your shoulder and compare it with the pattern and make sure you choose the right size for your body.
|Length||25 1/2″||26 1/4″||27″||27 3/4″||28 1/2″|
How To Make Your Office Hours Blouse
Step One: Fold and Sew the Front Pleat
The following picture is going to show you how the pleats should be folded.
Fold lines 1 and 2. The line closest to my thumb is line 1, then 2 and 3. Line 1 and 2 are fold lines and 3 is where you will place the pleat then sew right on the crease to keep the pleat down.
Place on line number 3. You will have to sew on line number three. Where the pleat is folded is where you will stitch.
The confusion you might encounter is that the pattern is to be cut on a fold. That means you will have to cut the front, unfold it on the table and then make the pleat. To help you do this you need to make notches on the fabric when you are cutting it.
But, these pleats need to be sewn from the wrong side of the fabric, which means you need to move the pins to the back. Iron the front using a cloth and then move the pins. Sew the inner fold lines (#3) using a medium stitch.
With my Bernina, I am using the 3mm stitch length.
Once you have sewn the pleat, iron once again and put aside.
Step Two: Sew the back
This is very simple sew the back at 5/8″ starting 5″ from the neckline, overlock the seam allowance separately and iron the seam open.
Step Three: Sew the Shoulder Seam
Print sides together, sew the front to the back at the shoulders at 5/8″. Serge the seams together and iron the seam allowance towards the back.
Step Four: Sewing the Sleeve
I have designed the sleeve in this office hours blouse pattern with a sleeve that is technically considered a puff sleeve. The first thing we need to do is to make the gathers at the shoulder.
Sew a row of stitches at 1/4″ from the edge and another one again at 1/4″.
Pull both threads on one side and then in the other gathering in the middle. You will need to gather approximately 1.5″ from the shoulder seam on either side or three inches in total.
Pin the sleeve to the bodice. Sew the sleeves at 5/8″. Then serge the seam allowance reducing it to 3/8″.
Place the gathers side to the plate of the sewing machine. The teeth of the plate will help the gathers stay the same way you gathered them. Serge the seam allowance reducing it to 3/8″.
Step Five: Sewing the Neckline
Iron the bias tape folding wrong sides together at 1/2″.Pin the tape to the neckline leaving one inch free. The seam allowance should be folded. I like to place the bias tape under the fabric, I know most people would do the opposite but this way I make sure I keep the 1/2″ seam allowance all around the neckline. Start sewing about 2mm from the fold of the seam allowance, this detail will become clearer when you turn the bias tape under.
Sew all around the neckline at 1/2″ and stop at the end of the center back 2mm from the folded seam allowance indicated below with the pin.
Turn the seam allowance away from the blouse and understitch very close to the edge of the tape.
Cut the seam allowance by half.
Open the tape and fold the end of the bias tape in,
fold the edge you ironed.
then fold the bias tape under the neckline. Stitch the bias tape down. Sew at 1/2″. Iron the neckline.
Step Six: Sewing the Side
Sew the blouse from the wrist all the way to the hemline. Serge each side and iron the seam allowance open.
Step Seven: Adding the Elastic to the Sleeve
Measure your wrist and add 3″ to the measurement. Mine is 6″ so I will add 3″, which means my elastic will be 9″ X 2 = (one for each arm) 18″ of elastic.
Cut the elastic in half and sew the elastic at 1/2″ making a band.
Serge the hem of the wrist. Fold the wrist hem by 1/2″ and iron, do this on both sleeves.
Turn the blouse wrong side out. Insert the elastic on the sleeve, fold the fabric over the elastic 3/4″. Sew at 5/8. Don’t catch the elastic.
Step Eight: Hemming the Blouse
I am working with rayon I will let the blouse hang on the mannequin overnight. Then serge the hemline and then fold 5/8″ and sew. Iron the entire blouse and you are ready to wear your blouse.
Need Another Office Hours Blouse Pattern?
Why not try this one?
Do you need an adjustment to this office hours blouse pattern? Here is how to make it longer or shorter. I know I will have to make it shorter since I am only 157cm tall.
Let me know in the comments below, what other adjustments would you like to learn using this office hours blouse pattern. Until next time, Happy Sewing!
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